2013 Ford Fusion Not Cranking

[UzrilBen]

Automatic transmission, not sure of engine size but I will check if needed.
My wife started the car and put it in reverse to pull out of the driveway, then the car quickly stalled and won't start again. She put it back in park but when the key is turned, there is no cranking at all.
The battery measures about 12.35V and the voltage doesn't change at all when the key is turned. I'm going to try to jump it but I'm not convinced it's the battery because I expect the voltage would get pulled down if the car is trying to start. I'd suspect the starter but that wouldn't explain why it stalled. When listening closely near the steering column, I can hear a small fan turning when the key is in the ignition. When I turn the key to start, the fan stops but no clicking as you would expect. The voltage literally doesn't change at all.
I'm capable of following instructions. Any suggestions to troubleshoot this? If this is too much for an amateur, do I have it towed to a mechanic?

 

[Handy Andy]

When the voltage doesn't change - meaning that there is no "draw" by the system to draw down the voltage...

The thing is a 2013 - so 10 years and counting.

Battery cables come to mind - Both Positive and Ground - Ground is to the back towards the windshield and it's cowl cover.

Best to test the Ground of the Battery Negative POST to a Frame bolt or Engine Block and see if the Ohmic check shoes less than 1Ω (ohm) resistance.

The cables are open, not sealed - just have a simple cover - so they are relatively unprotected.

Fuse box comes to mind, and also the Relays - but that is AFTER you verified the battery is connected to the system well and good enough...

Since it was being driven - and it seems you don't even get DASH lights - those tell-tale ones to show Check Engine, Oil - Battery Seat Belt and the like - suspect the battery CABLE. Uses two, one to the Ground/Frame Body, second supplies power for your dash, or the starter / alternator. That junction - may have corroded to a point it has opened.

The same can apply to the Ground Cable - both to the engine and the frame - the battery terminal - those posts, use a special connector to bolt to the terminal - and provide a hole for a bolt and nut, and the cable it uses, has a lug to fit that bolt and hole to the nut to keep it pressed together.

When you look at these cables - you can see exposed copper, which in itself will oxidize over time and as it does, lose its ability to remain ductile (flexible) and continue to conduct electricity.

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Might need to take some pictures, for the rest of the steps to guide you to get back up and running can get pretty complex to describe without a visual aid.